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Noodlefighter osu keyboard?

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sangu
I've been following this thread for a while and decided to weigh in.

InnocentEyes wrote:

I was going to glue three together and another three the same way, then screw them together
There are other (possibly better) ways of doing this, such as gluing 5 pieces together and the securing the last piece by bolts, velcro, or rubber bands (which would double as the rubber feet you were mentioning) It would be similar to the original noodlefighter design. (keeping the tolerances tight would reduce the boards ability to move without making it impossible to remove)

Sorun wrote:

I didn't want to be bothered smoothing the edges
15 seconds on a belt grinder would take care of that.

Sorun wrote:

borrow some tool to cut it from my father
You can use quite a few tools to cut acrylic, depending on how much effort you want to use. You can use an ordinary box cutter (many passes) a jig saw/scroll saw would work as well. (I've also used Tin-snips, water-jets, hack-saws, Titanium scissors, a brake, and an end-mill to cut acrylic) (I generally deal with polycarbonate sheets, similar but slightly different)

Also you can use a moldable plastic to make the case, rather than all the cutting and gluing.

Another project I was thinking of was the use of header pins (female) to create a solder-less connection to the switch, which should allow for very easy swaps. (not entirely certain how well this would work, I'm an ME not an EE)

If I knew the dimensions of the board I'd be able to whip up a CAD pretty quick, but as I do not own one of these cards, I don't know where the keys line up or the overall dimensions.
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

Also you can use a moldable plastic to make the case, rather than all the cutting and gluing.

Another project I was thinking of was the use of header pins (female) to create a solder-less connection to the switch, which should allow for very easy swaps. (not entirely certain how well this would work, I'm an ME not an EE)

If I knew the dimensions of the board I'd be able to whip up a CAD pretty quick, but as I do not own one of these cards, I don't know where the keys line up or the overall dimensions.
That makes my concept look a bit complicated...
Obviously this is my first mockup of the shell, so it may look hard to read at first. I'd have to actually make this for myself and work out all the kinks before I have a good idea of how to actually write a coherent concept on it.

With that said, if you want to see the idea I came up with, here it is. http://i.imgur.com/lbWH4Ia.png

I do like the molding plastic idea, but what if you had to do maintenance on the board? That's why I added screws in my concept, so that they were able to be removed and the inside board could be tampered without destroying the casing. My idea is something that in theory might be an okay idea, but it obviously needs reworking.
sangu

InnocentEyes wrote:

I do like the molding plastic idea, but what if you had to do maintenance on the board?
Remember, the plastic molds to the shape you want, so if you mold it into multiple pieces to which fit together, you would be able to use the same bolt/fastener method. another advantage, (if you want to get fancy) is to mold the top and sides to be ergonomic rather than just flat edges.

InnocentEyes wrote:

With that said, if you want to see the idea I came up with, here it is.
so something like this?

For the screws you can add tabs to the bottom and top pieces to secure them without running bolts through the whole creation, like this (I changed the color from smoked acrylic to solid to show the features better)
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

Remember, the plastic molds to the shape you want, so if you mold it into multiple pieces to which fit together, you would be able to use the same bolt/fastener method. another advantage, (if you want to get fancy) is to mold the top and sides to be ergonomic rather than just flat edges.

so something like this?

For the screws you can add tabs to the bottom and top pieces to secure them without running bolts through the whole creation, like this (I changed the color from smoked acrylic to solid to show the features better)
Great idea, so the plastic hardens and it's not just bendable like putty? If it does harden, I'll use it.
sangu
It hardens until it is placed in warm water again. (it has to be warmer than a sweaty hand) Once you place it in water it becomes moldable again, so you can keep trying until you find your favorite shape. Once that is found, cool the model, and it will be a hardened plastic form.
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

It hardens until it is placed in warm water again. (it has to be warmer than a sweaty hand) Once you place it in water it becomes moldable again, so you can keep trying until you find your favorite shape. Once that is found, cool the model, and it will be a hardened plastic form.
I guess I will try to make a casing using a your idea and revised version of my crazy idea both. That way I can see which one works better.
Sorun
New legit red and clear switches came in today. I still haven't received my weller soldering iron so I ended up buying a cheaper walmart iron because i'm impatient. Soldered the reds on to a new board and they work perfectly after 20 mins of osu!. What sucks is that the tape didn't hold the switches down well enough like my last board and they ended up crooked. Sad life. I still got 4 other boards and clear switches, but I might just wait for my weller to come in.
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

New legit red and clear switches came in today. I still haven't received my weller soldering iron so I ended up buying a cheaper walmart iron because i'm impatient. Soldered the reds on to a new board and they work perfectly after 20 mins of osu!. What sucks is that the tape didn't hold the switches down well enough like my last board and they ended up crooked. Sad life. I still got 4 other boards and clear switches, but I might just wait for my weller to come in.
The Chinese origin post isn't shipping on time (Been waiting 6 days for it to depart from Nanjing), so I might have to look for switches elsewhere. Because of eBay's way of dealing with sellers, I have to wait until November 14 before I can use eBay Buyer Protection to get a refund.

I will have to try something else to get my switches.

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

InnocentEyes wrote:

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Looking at a comparison for how all of the switches work I felt that brown would be the best match because it is tactile. Red isn't tactile, so I might have problems with it because of its linear feedback. Red however has very low resistance and I may be able to go faster with it. Green is just... I guess if I wanted a workout? Black is much the same. Blue also has fairly low resistance but the clicking noise might get annoying.

Do you know what any famous osu! players use? (i.e. rrtyui, cookiezi, WubWoofWolf, hvick225)
Foxi
I suppose it is noteworthy if I mention the switches aren't here yet and I may need to make a separate purchase for new ones while I wait to ask eBay's support to enforce a refund. If I do buy new switches that aren't red and the ones I have already ordered do arrive, then that just means I can make a second keyboard and sell it somewhere.
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?

Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Looking at a comparison for how all of the switches work I felt that brown would be the best match because it is tactile. Red isn't tactile, so I might have problems with it because of its linear feedback. Red however has very low resistance and I may be able to go faster with it. Green is just... I guess if I wanted a workout? Black is much the same. Blue also has fairly low resistance but the clicking noise might get annoying.

Do you know what any famous osu! players use? (i.e. rrtyui, cookiezi, WubWoofWolf, hvick225)
I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.

It really depends on what your comfortable with. I've tried browns before for typing and I didn't really like them but now that I played with reds I miss the tactile feedback from my blues so i'm going to give browns a try for osu! once I get a order in. Clears are pretty damn good and the tactile feedback is much more noticeable then when I tried browns but my hands experienced fatigue much quicker then usual. Not going to bother with Ergo clears since I soldered the leds in already and now its near impossible to remove the springs. Those could have been my main because there supposedly browns but with the more noticeable tactile feedback.

For switches I would order them off of WASD as mine are in excellent condition. Alternatively you could try mechanicalkeyboards which is also a reputable source for anything mech. I wouldn't trust ebay especially since you're having problems and the chances of those switches being imitation are high considering some do ship from china.

As for case designs I've settled on a cardboard box haha for now. I'm going to wait and see what you come up then copy that if it turns out well :P I call my first protype the osu! pad homeless edition.

Btw I found this and it might turn out great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEO ... AMZPY8TXHP
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Btw I found this and it might turn out great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEO ... AMZPY8TXHP
Hmm, that looks like it might work, I'd need the dimensions though, because that looks like it might be tough to cut through.
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.
Red it is. I'll get blues just in case
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Sorun wrote:

I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.
Red it is. I'll get blues just in case
Reds are probably the most popular on osu! I think you'll enjoy it. Blues are much more of a preference because of the click clack, you might enjoy it like I do.


"Hmm, that looks like it might work, I'd need the dimensions though, because that looks like it might be tough to cut through."

Yeah I think you would need to have a power drill and a jigsaw for the cutout.
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Yeah I think you would need to have a power drill and a jigsaw for the cutout.
Maybe I'll do that in my second copy, but for right now I am using my original idea.

Now, if only I could get my hands on those switches already. :(
Deimos
Is the techkey card even configurable?

I also made a 2 button keyboard but used the Adafruit USB trinket (5V) instead.
Sorun

Deimos wrote:

Is the techkey card even configurable?

I also made a 2 button keyboard but used the Adafruit USB trinket (5V) instead.
The source code was released and its fully reprogrammable. Once you short the board it shows up as a Atmega board so it's extremely simply to program the LEDs and create macros.
Foxi

Deimos wrote:

Is the techkey card even configurable?

I also made a 2 button keyboard but used the Adafruit USB trinket (5V) instead.
It may seem like a weird question, but could I use Alp switches with such a highly customizable board?

And yes, even though it's already been answered, you can modify the firmware of the board.
Deimos
Never heard about such switches, if they work like the cherry mx as switcher there should be no problem. The number of usable switches is just very low - I didn't found a way to add an usable third button - so an Adafruit Pro Trinket (5V) would be an better choice since it is providing more usable pins.
sangu

Deimos wrote:

The number of usable switches is just very low - I didn't found a way to add an usable third button
looking at the non-pro version, it looks like there are 4 or 5 inputs, which means that it would be very easy to connect 3,4,or maybe even 5 switches to it. (there are 4 labeled input ports and one labeled "0" so I'm not sure about its ability to accept a signal)

Any idea how these work in comparison to an arduino nano?

As for the Alp switches, they look like digital automotive switches so I think they might work?
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

looking at the non-pro version, it looks like there are 4 or 5 inputs, which means that it would be very easy to connect 3,4,or maybe even 5 switches to it. (there are 4 labeled input ports and one labeled "0" so I'm not sure about its ability to accept a signal)

Any idea how these work in comparison to an arduino nano?

As for the Alp switches, they look like digital automotive switches so I think they might work?
These are ALPS switches. It is understandable how you accidentally found their close relatives, the Alp switches which are for motorized vehicles.
sangu

InnocentEyes wrote:

It is understandable how you accidentally found their close relatives, the Alp switches which are for motorized vehicles
Yeah previously I had taken that ALPS was ALP plural.... But those switches are functionally the same as cherry (without support pins) so if you wire them the same as the cherry switches they should work. The biggest difference is the location of the signal pins, so if you buy a board with pre-made holes, make sure that the holes are meant for the ALPS switches. (the Techkeys are meant for Cherry) (you can also get around this by adding wire to the pins)
Foxi
Still waiting for my switches to get here. I ordered a separate pair in case these don't show up.
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Still waiting for my switches to get here. I ordered a separate pair in case these don't show up.

Hopefully it gets there soon you've had to wait forever. I'll be getting my browns tomorrow or tuesday as well as some o rings and more keycaps.
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Hopefully it gets there soon you've had to wait forever. I'll be getting my browns tomorrow or tuesday as well as some o rings and more keycaps.
Yeah, it's not like it's been weeks since I've ordered them. I can progress without o-rings and lights, but switches are highly essential.
Sorun
Got my stuff in and i'm actually surprised how much of a effect orings have on my blues. I'll probably solder the browns in the morning. What color LEDs should I use?
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Got my stuff in and i'm actually surprised how much of a effect orings have on my blues. I'll probably solder the browns in the morning. What color LEDs should I use?
Purple, just because.
Sorun
I gotta say this time the board came out nearly perfect this time around with the only flaw being the middle switch being like 0.1mm off. Not even noticeable unless you put your eyes right on top of it. Went with purple on the sides and green in the middle for the LEDs. I'll upload pics later.
thelewa
The breath light(background light)
Foxi

thelewa wrote:

The breath light(background light)
The LED diodes? I was hoping to get blue for myself.

Also, I figured out why it's taking so long. Apparently China Post in Nanjing had some security issues and I won't be receiving the package.
I have to wait until the 20th to start a case on it to receive back my money.

Whoopee.

(UPDATE: I live in Washington State, the package finally moved at it's now in California, did some negotiating)
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

thelewa wrote:

The breath light(background light)
The LED diodes? I was hoping to get blue for myself.

Also, I figured out why it's taking so long. Apparently China Post in Nanjing had some security issues and I won't be receiving the package.
I have to wait until the 20th to start a case on it to receive back my money.

Whoopee.

(UPDATE: I live in Washington State, the package finally moved at it's now in California, did some negotiating)
Any day now :oops:
Foxi

Deimos wrote:

Never heard about such switches, if they work like the cherry mx as switcher there should be no problem. The number of usable switches is just very low - I didn't found a way to add an usable third button - so an Adafruit Pro Trinket (5V) would be an better choice since it is providing more usable pins.
Is it possible to use the 3.3V Adafruit Trinket Microcontroller to make an osu keyboard?
Deimos

InnocentEyes wrote:

Deimos wrote:

Never heard about such switches, if they work like the cherry mx as switcher there should be no problem. The number of usable switches is just very low - I didn't found a way to add an usable third button - so an Adafruit Pro Trinket (5V) would be an better choice since it is providing more usable pins.
Is it possible to use the 3.3V Adafruit Trinket Microcontroller to make an osu keyboard?
Foxi

Deimos wrote:

I guess I'd have to go 5V.
Sorun
Anyone else feel these little projects deserve there own thread? Innocent you should start one for us. Something along the lines of "Building you own mech - Project and ideas".
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Anyone else feel these little projects deserve there own thread? Innocent you should start one for us. Something along the lines of "Building you own mech - Project and ideas".
I've been thinking of that for the last few days. I have to make my own first. The tracking says it's in Seattle right now and that isn't too far from my town. Should be tomorrow.

We still have yet to perfect the casing.
RivenDaddy
I use a tablet for osu
Deimos

DJsniper20002 wrote:

I use a tablet for osu
That's topic related 'cause?
Foxi

DJsniper20002 wrote:

I use a tablet for osu
That's what most people do. It's hard to play with a mouse or touch screen when you're trying to stream.
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