Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.InnocentEyes wrote:
I bought it but it's not here yet.Sorun wrote:
It shouldn't matter. Did you buy the board yet?
Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.InnocentEyes wrote:
I bought it but it's not here yet.Sorun wrote:
It shouldn't matter. Did you buy the board yet?
You're going to replace them?Sorun wrote:
Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
You're going to replace them?[/quote]InnocentEyes wrote:
Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
Yeah I got in touch with another one of the workers and he was way more helpful. He examined the board and said it was most likely damage from the solder. He told me getting a better solder iron would be a good idea and gave me a 50% off a item. I'm going to get another board, but i'm definitely not getting switches from them. Not only are the switches chinese but some are also used switches desoldered from old boards. Wow I wish they put that in the description.[/quote]Sorun wrote:
You're going to replace them?InnocentEyes wrote:
Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
It's just the red and brown switches that are fakes, but yes some of there switches are used switches confirmed from a post on there geekhack subforum.InnocentEyes wrote:
Maybe you could find a better place than Ebay to buy genuine switches. Maybe I'm just not being smart, let me know if you find a place.
Yeah your best bet is to buy in bulk when there is a group buy going on. I regret missing out on several GBs. Looking at the prices now I could have made a fortune reselling haha.InnocentEyes wrote:
It's shocking how expensive true Cherry MX keys are.
Oh haha I'm glad I had several from other keyboards and some from my ps3.InnocentEyes wrote:
Just got some packages. I now know I need to buy a mini USB cable.
[/img]
Turns out I had a crappy mini USB lying around from my old osu tablet. It wiggled around in it and never worked, so I replaced it. However, this mini USB port is nice and firm so I don't have to replace it. Even if I did have to, it would only come to about $1.Sorun wrote:
Oh haha I'm glad I had several from other keyboards and some from my ps3.InnocentEyes wrote:
Just got some packages. I now know I need to buy a mini USB cable.
[/img]
Thanks. I actually got it for free with my order from keypop.net a long time ago. There was a minor problem with shipping and he tossed it in for free.InnocentEyes wrote:
Turns out I had a crappy mini USB lying around from my old osu tablet. It wiggled around in it and never worked, so I replaced it. However, this mini USB port is nice and firm so I don't have to replace it. Even if I did have to, it would only come to about $1.
By the way, I saw that on Ebay. Nice key.
I could have chosen zinc keys, but I wanted keys that were translucent so people could see the flash underneath (Attempting to compete with the NoodleFighter keyboard which offers this). They would have looked like this...Sorun wrote:
Thanks. I actually got it for free with my order from keypop.net a long time ago. There was a minor problem with shipping and he tossed it in for free.
Yeah the zinc keycaps do look great but they're expensive. A 37 set goes for nearly $70. For $20 more you can get a Full doubleshot themed set... You got any ideas on casing yet? I've been contacting a few acrylic workshops and haven't got a response yet. For now i'm trying to brain storm cheap alternatives like lego cases or altoid cans.InnocentEyes wrote:
:|I could have chosen zinc keys, but I wanted keys that were translucent so people could see the flash underneath (Attempting to compete with the NoodleFighter keyboard which offers this). They would have looked like this...Sorun wrote:
Thanks. I actually got it for free with my order from keypop.net a long time ago. There was a minor problem with shipping and he tossed it in for free.
http://i.imgur.com/RsSmNZs.jpg
They were actually in my budget and for just $2-3 more. I just wanted better bragging rights because translucent is flashier. When I get the opportunity I am buying zinc.Sorun wrote:
Yeah the zinc keycaps do look great but they're expensive. A 37 set goes for nearly $70. For $20 more you can get a Full doubleshot themed set... You got any ideas on casing yet? I've been contacting a few acrylic workshops and haven't got a response yet. For now i'm trying to brain storm cheap alternatives like lego cases or altoid cans.
InnocentEyes wrote:
They were actually in my budget and for just $2-3 more. I just wanted better bragging rights because translucent is flashier. When I get the opportunity I am buying zinc.Sorun wrote:
Yeah the zinc keycaps do look great but they're expensive. A 37 set goes for nearly $70. For $20 more you can get a Full doubleshot themed set... You got any ideas on casing yet? I've been contacting a few acrylic workshops and haven't got a response yet. For now i'm trying to brain storm cheap alternatives like lego cases or altoid cans.
For casing I was planning two sheets of 8"x12" black plexiglass (acrylic plastic) that I would cut up with a special knife and Gorilla Glue together. Six pieces in all, and I was going to glue three together and another three the same way, then screw them together (Without so much as touching the board, of course). That way, you could unscrew it and extract the board if you need to.
These two sheets are $4 each, bringing the total to $8. I own Gorilla Glue already, but I forgot its pricing. I can make a mockup of this design if you would like to see it. It is easy to apply stickers and decals to.
Also, some anti-skid padding adhesives underneath the casing to prevent it from sliding all over the place would be ideal.
There are other (possibly better) ways of doing this, such as gluing 5 pieces together and the securing the last piece by bolts, velcro, or rubber bands (which would double as the rubber feet you were mentioning) It would be similar to the original noodlefighter design. (keeping the tolerances tight would reduce the boards ability to move without making it impossible to remove)InnocentEyes wrote:
I was going to glue three together and another three the same way, then screw them together
15 seconds on a belt grinder would take care of that.Sorun wrote:
I didn't want to be bothered smoothing the edges
You can use quite a few tools to cut acrylic, depending on how much effort you want to use. You can use an ordinary box cutter (many passes) a jig saw/scroll saw would work as well. (I've also used Tin-snips, water-jets, hack-saws, Titanium scissors, a brake, and an end-mill to cut acrylic) (I generally deal with polycarbonate sheets, similar but slightly different)Sorun wrote:
borrow some tool to cut it from my father
That makes my concept look a bit complicated...sanguisinvia wrote:
Also you can use a moldable plastic to make the case, rather than all the cutting and gluing.
Another project I was thinking of was the use of header pins (female) to create a solder-less connection to the switch, which should allow for very easy swaps. (not entirely certain how well this would work, I'm an ME not an EE)
If I knew the dimensions of the board I'd be able to whip up a CAD pretty quick, but as I do not own one of these cards, I don't know where the keys line up or the overall dimensions.
Remember, the plastic molds to the shape you want, so if you mold it into multiple pieces to which fit together, you would be able to use the same bolt/fastener method. another advantage, (if you want to get fancy) is to mold the top and sides to be ergonomic rather than just flat edges.InnocentEyes wrote:
I do like the molding plastic idea, but what if you had to do maintenance on the board?
so something like this?InnocentEyes wrote:
With that said, if you want to see the idea I came up with, here it is.
Great idea, so the plastic hardens and it's not just bendable like putty? If it does harden, I'll use it.sanguisinvia wrote:
Remember, the plastic molds to the shape you want, so if you mold it into multiple pieces to which fit together, you would be able to use the same bolt/fastener method. another advantage, (if you want to get fancy) is to mold the top and sides to be ergonomic rather than just flat edges.
so something like this?
For the screws you can add tabs to the bottom and top pieces to secure them without running bolts through the whole creation, like this (I changed the color from smoked acrylic to solid to show the features better)
I guess I will try to make a casing using a your idea and revised version of my crazy idea both. That way I can see which one works better.sanguisinvia wrote:
It hardens until it is placed in warm water again. (it has to be warmer than a sweaty hand) Once you place it in water it becomes moldable again, so you can keep trying until you find your favorite shape. Once that is found, cool the model, and it will be a hardened plastic form.
The Chinese origin post isn't shipping on time (Been waiting 6 days for it to depart from Nanjing), so I might have to look for switches elsewhere. Because of eBay's way of dealing with sellers, I have to wait until November 14 before I can use eBay Buyer Protection to get a refund.Sorun wrote:
New legit red and clear switches came in today. I still haven't received my weller soldering iron so I ended up buying a cheaper walmart iron because i'm impatient. Soldered the reds on to a new board and they work perfectly after 20 mins of osu!. What sucks is that the tape didn't hold the switches down well enough like my last board and they ended up crooked. Sad life. I still got 4 other boards and clear switches, but I might just wait for my weller to come in.
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.InnocentEyes wrote:
Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Looking at a comparison for how all of the switches work I felt that brown would be the best match because it is tactile. Red isn't tactile, so I might have problems with it because of its linear feedback. Red however has very low resistance and I may be able to go faster with it. Green is just... I guess if I wanted a workout? Black is much the same. Blue also has fairly low resistance but the clicking noise might get annoying.Sorun wrote:
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.InnocentEyes wrote:
Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.InnocentEyes wrote:
Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Looking at a comparison for how all of the switches work I felt that brown would be the best match because it is tactile. Red isn't tactile, so I might have problems with it because of its linear feedback. Red however has very low resistance and I may be able to go faster with it. Green is just... I guess if I wanted a workout? Black is much the same. Blue also has fairly low resistance but the clicking noise might get annoying.
Do you know what any famous osu! players use? (i.e. rrtyui, cookiezi, WubWoofWolf, hvick225)
Hmm, that looks like it might work, I'd need the dimensions though, because that looks like it might be tough to cut through.Sorun wrote:
Btw I found this and it might turn out great
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEO ... AMZPY8TXHP
Red it is. I'll get blues just in caseSorun wrote:
I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.
Reds are probably the most popular on osu! I think you'll enjoy it. Blues are much more of a preference because of the click clack, you might enjoy it like I do.InnocentEyes wrote:
Red it is. I'll get blues just in caseSorun wrote:
I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.
Maybe I'll do that in my second copy, but for right now I am using my original idea.Sorun wrote:
Yeah I think you would need to have a power drill and a jigsaw for the cutout.
The source code was released and its fully reprogrammable. Once you short the board it shows up as a Atmega board so it's extremely simply to program the LEDs and create macros.Deimos wrote:
Is the techkey card even configurable?
I also made a 2 button keyboard but used the Adafruit USB trinket (5V) instead.
It may seem like a weird question, but could I use Alp switches with such a highly customizable board?Deimos wrote:
Is the techkey card even configurable?
I also made a 2 button keyboard but used the Adafruit USB trinket (5V) instead.
looking at the non-pro version, it looks like there are 4 or 5 inputs, which means that it would be very easy to connect 3,4,or maybe even 5 switches to it. (there are 4 labeled input ports and one labeled "0" so I'm not sure about its ability to accept a signal)Deimos wrote:
The number of usable switches is just very low - I didn't found a way to add an usable third button
These are ALPS switches. It is understandable how you accidentally found their close relatives, the Alp switches which are for motorized vehicles.sanguisinvia wrote:
looking at the non-pro version, it looks like there are 4 or 5 inputs, which means that it would be very easy to connect 3,4,or maybe even 5 switches to it. (there are 4 labeled input ports and one labeled "0" so I'm not sure about its ability to accept a signal)
Any idea how these work in comparison to an arduino nano?
As for the Alp switches, they look like digital automotive switches so I think they might work?
Yeah previously I had taken that ALPS was ALP plural.... But those switches are functionally the same as cherry (without support pins) so if you wire them the same as the cherry switches they should work. The biggest difference is the location of the signal pins, so if you buy a board with pre-made holes, make sure that the holes are meant for the ALPS switches. (the Techkeys are meant for Cherry) (you can also get around this by adding wire to the pins)InnocentEyes wrote:
It is understandable how you accidentally found their close relatives, the Alp switches which are for motorized vehicles