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Noodlefighter osu keyboard?

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Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Sorun wrote:

$37 sound a bit high. Did you buy the programmable board or the business card? Sounds like you got the more expensive board with the extra switch. Mine came out to $17 for the board plus shipping.
Getting the business card.
What I did is decided to acquire LEDs, spare keycaps (because I don't have any), o-rings, red switches, black plexiglass (acrylic plastic), gel padding for my hand, etc.

I don't have many supplies like this lying around, so I have to get them all. Most of what brought up the price were genuine Cherry MX keys and keycaps. Keycaps are unnecessarily expensive. I probably don't have to spend the whole $37, I haven't made the purchase yet, but shipping is definitely something that will bring it up too.

I will be making the purchases tonight.

Sounds like you got a fun project coming your way and I hope you got a good soldering iron to complete it. Also post pictures when you get everything!
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Sounds like you got a fun project coming your way and I hope you got a good soldering iron to complete it. Also post pictures when you get everything!
You can be sure I will. :D
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi
Does it matter whether I use copper or tin to solder?
ikzune
159 posts
Joined August 2013
ikzune
since key roll over isnt really a problem here maybe you can try to get laptop keys pressure onto this over red switch o.o keys you can get away with bottoming out on so much easier if ur not used to mechanical @_@
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun
It shouldn't matter. Did you buy the board yet?
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun
Ehh just some some clears because i'm bored out of my mind and I want to try Ergo clears.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

It shouldn't matter. Did you buy the board yet?
I bought it but it's not here yet.
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Sorun wrote:

It shouldn't matter. Did you buy the board yet?
I bought it but it's not here yet.
Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
You're going to replace them?
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
You're going to replace them?[/quote]

Yeah I got in touch with another one of the workers and he was way more helpful. He examined the board and said it was most likely damage from the solder. He told me getting a better solder iron would be a good idea and gave me a 50% off a item. I'm going to get another board, but i'm definitely not getting switches from them. Not only are the switches chinese but some are also used switches desoldered from old boards. Wow I wish they put that in the description.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

InnocentEyes wrote:

Oh okay. I was going to to tell you to use the coupon code I was given since a few of the switches I bought were defective.
You're going to replace them?
Yeah I got in touch with another one of the workers and he was way more helpful. He examined the board and said it was most likely damage from the solder. He told me getting a better solder iron would be a good idea and gave me a 50% off a item. I'm going to get another board, but i'm definitely not getting switches from them. Not only are the switches chinese but some are also used switches desoldered from old boards. Wow I wish they put that in the description.[/quote]

Yikes, if you want the authentic switches I got they can be found here http://www.ebay.com/itm/121240068935. (Yes, these are the cheapest on Ebay, I looked)

It's shocking how expensive true Cherry MX keys are. If TechKeys takes these fake switches from other keyboards, it only raises more questions. For instance, are their keyboard sets genuine?
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi
Maybe you could find a better place than Ebay to buy genuine switches. Maybe I'm just not being smart, let me know if you find a place.
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Maybe you could find a better place than Ebay to buy genuine switches. Maybe I'm just not being smart, let me know if you find a place.
It's just the red and brown switches that are fakes, but yes some of there switches are used switches confirmed from a post on there geekhack subforum.

I bought some switches from http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/ ... parts.html. They're $1.50 a piece and from the picture its the genuine switches. Not sure if their used or not, but I've ordered from wasd often for keycap sets in the past and the customer service is excellent so i'm not worried if I get defective switches. Ordered clears and reds. I'm going to mod the clears to ergos and lube them.

InnocentEyes wrote:

It's shocking how expensive true Cherry MX keys are.
Yeah your best bet is to buy in bulk when there is a group buy going on. I regret missing out on several GBs. Looking at the prices now I could have made a fortune reselling haha.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi
Because, you know... Who needs just a FEW o-rings?

This is a very lazy way of showing everything I have bought so far. I am buying a soldering iron local, and possibly buying tin wire online. I haven't decided yet. As for a plastic cover, I'm probably not going to purchase the materials for that until I know for a fact this keyboard will work (After I have finished it and everything checks out).

In the end if all is green, I will make a demonstration video. Regardless of success or failure I will take a photo.

Alternatively, here is a list of my supplies I have purchased so far (Save for the soldering iron and wire I have not bought yet). Let me know if I am missing anything.

  • Red Cherry MX Switches
    O-Rings for Dampening Keys
    Black Translucent Keycaps
    Blue 3MM LED Diodes
    Cherry MX Switch Covers (Clear)
    TechKeys Business Card
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi
Just got some packages. I now know I need to buy a mini USB cable.
TechKeys needs to learn to say in the description when some things aren't in the packages.
Crap quality because I was using my old Flip Camcorder for lack of camera handy
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun
Nice. I got a few of my packages in today as well.

Here's a pic of me working on the LEDs. I'm trying to program them so they flash with the level of BPM that's playing. It may be a bit out of my level though.

http://i.imgur.com/J1K0oXq.jpg
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Just got some packages. I now know I need to buy a mini USB cable.
[/img]
Oh haha I'm glad I had several from other keyboards and some from my ps3.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

InnocentEyes wrote:

Just got some packages. I now know I need to buy a mini USB cable.
[/img]
Oh haha I'm glad I had several from other keyboards and some from my ps3.
Turns out I had a crappy mini USB lying around from my old osu tablet. It wiggled around in it and never worked, so I replaced it. However, this mini USB port is nice and firm so I don't have to replace it. Even if I did have to, it would only come to about $1.

By the way, I saw that on Ebay. Nice key. 8-)
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Turns out I had a crappy mini USB lying around from my old osu tablet. It wiggled around in it and never worked, so I replaced it. However, this mini USB port is nice and firm so I don't have to replace it. Even if I did have to, it would only come to about $1.

By the way, I saw that on Ebay. Nice key. 8-)
Thanks. I actually got it for free with my order from keypop.net a long time ago. There was a minor problem with shipping and he tossed it in for free.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi
:|

Sorun wrote:

Thanks. I actually got it for free with my order from keypop.net a long time ago. There was a minor problem with shipping and he tossed it in for free.
I could have chosen zinc keys, but I wanted keys that were translucent so people could see the flash underneath (Attempting to compete with the NoodleFighter keyboard which offers this). They would have looked like this...
http://i.imgur.com/RsSmNZs.jpg
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

:|

Sorun wrote:

Thanks. I actually got it for free with my order from keypop.net a long time ago. There was a minor problem with shipping and he tossed it in for free.
I could have chosen zinc keys, but I wanted keys that were translucent so people could see the flash underneath (Attempting to compete with the NoodleFighter keyboard which offers this). They would have looked like this...
http://i.imgur.com/RsSmNZs.jpg
Yeah the zinc keycaps do look great but they're expensive. A 37 set goes for nearly $70. For $20 more you can get a Full doubleshot themed set... You got any ideas on casing yet? I've been contacting a few acrylic workshops and haven't got a response yet. For now i'm trying to brain storm cheap alternatives like lego cases or altoid cans.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Yeah the zinc keycaps do look great but they're expensive. A 37 set goes for nearly $70. For $20 more you can get a Full doubleshot themed set... You got any ideas on casing yet? I've been contacting a few acrylic workshops and haven't got a response yet. For now i'm trying to brain storm cheap alternatives like lego cases or altoid cans.
They were actually in my budget and for just $2-3 more. I just wanted better bragging rights because translucent is flashier. When I get the opportunity I am buying zinc.

For casing I was planning two sheets of 8"x12" black plexiglass (acrylic plastic) that I would cut up with a special knife and Gorilla Glue together. Six pieces in all, and I was going to glue three together and another three the same way, then screw them together (Without so much as touching the board, of course). That way, you could unscrew it and extract the board if you need to.

These two sheets are $4 each, bringing the total to $8. I own Gorilla Glue already, but I forgot its pricing. I can make a mockup of this design if you would like to see it. It is easy to apply stickers and decals to.

Also, some anti-skid padding adhesives underneath the casing to prevent it from sliding all over the place would be ideal.
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Sorun wrote:

Yeah the zinc keycaps do look great but they're expensive. A 37 set goes for nearly $70. For $20 more you can get a Full doubleshot themed set... You got any ideas on casing yet? I've been contacting a few acrylic workshops and haven't got a response yet. For now i'm trying to brain storm cheap alternatives like lego cases or altoid cans.
They were actually in my budget and for just $2-3 more. I just wanted better bragging rights because translucent is flashier. When I get the opportunity I am buying zinc.

For casing I was planning two sheets of 8"x12" black plexiglass (acrylic plastic) that I would cut up with a special knife and Gorilla Glue together. Six pieces in all, and I was going to glue three together and another three the same way, then screw them together (Without so much as touching the board, of course). That way, you could unscrew it and extract the board if you need to.

These two sheets are $4 each, bringing the total to $8. I own Gorilla Glue already, but I forgot its pricing. I can make a mockup of this design if you would like to see it. It is easy to apply stickers and decals to.

Also, some anti-skid padding adhesives underneath the casing to prevent it from sliding all over the place would be ideal.

Please do. I would love to do the same. I just wanted it to be professionally done for me because I didn't want to be bothered smoothing the edges. At the price I might as well do it myself because I already have gorilla glue and i'm sure I could borrow some tool to cut it from my father.
sangu
120 posts
Joined June 2013
sangu
I've been following this thread for a while and decided to weigh in.

InnocentEyes wrote:

I was going to glue three together and another three the same way, then screw them together
There are other (possibly better) ways of doing this, such as gluing 5 pieces together and the securing the last piece by bolts, velcro, or rubber bands (which would double as the rubber feet you were mentioning) It would be similar to the original noodlefighter design. (keeping the tolerances tight would reduce the boards ability to move without making it impossible to remove)

Sorun wrote:

I didn't want to be bothered smoothing the edges
15 seconds on a belt grinder would take care of that.

Sorun wrote:

borrow some tool to cut it from my father
You can use quite a few tools to cut acrylic, depending on how much effort you want to use. You can use an ordinary box cutter (many passes) a jig saw/scroll saw would work as well. (I've also used Tin-snips, water-jets, hack-saws, Titanium scissors, a brake, and an end-mill to cut acrylic) (I generally deal with polycarbonate sheets, similar but slightly different)

Also you can use a moldable plastic to make the case, rather than all the cutting and gluing.

Another project I was thinking of was the use of header pins (female) to create a solder-less connection to the switch, which should allow for very easy swaps. (not entirely certain how well this would work, I'm an ME not an EE)

If I knew the dimensions of the board I'd be able to whip up a CAD pretty quick, but as I do not own one of these cards, I don't know where the keys line up or the overall dimensions.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

Also you can use a moldable plastic to make the case, rather than all the cutting and gluing.

Another project I was thinking of was the use of header pins (female) to create a solder-less connection to the switch, which should allow for very easy swaps. (not entirely certain how well this would work, I'm an ME not an EE)

If I knew the dimensions of the board I'd be able to whip up a CAD pretty quick, but as I do not own one of these cards, I don't know where the keys line up or the overall dimensions.
That makes my concept look a bit complicated...
Obviously this is my first mockup of the shell, so it may look hard to read at first. I'd have to actually make this for myself and work out all the kinks before I have a good idea of how to actually write a coherent concept on it.

With that said, if you want to see the idea I came up with, here it is. http://i.imgur.com/lbWH4Ia.png

I do like the molding plastic idea, but what if you had to do maintenance on the board? That's why I added screws in my concept, so that they were able to be removed and the inside board could be tampered without destroying the casing. My idea is something that in theory might be an okay idea, but it obviously needs reworking.
sangu
120 posts
Joined June 2013
sangu

InnocentEyes wrote:

I do like the molding plastic idea, but what if you had to do maintenance on the board?
Remember, the plastic molds to the shape you want, so if you mold it into multiple pieces to which fit together, you would be able to use the same bolt/fastener method. another advantage, (if you want to get fancy) is to mold the top and sides to be ergonomic rather than just flat edges.

InnocentEyes wrote:

With that said, if you want to see the idea I came up with, here it is.
so something like this?

For the screws you can add tabs to the bottom and top pieces to secure them without running bolts through the whole creation, like this (I changed the color from smoked acrylic to solid to show the features better)
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

Remember, the plastic molds to the shape you want, so if you mold it into multiple pieces to which fit together, you would be able to use the same bolt/fastener method. another advantage, (if you want to get fancy) is to mold the top and sides to be ergonomic rather than just flat edges.

so something like this?

For the screws you can add tabs to the bottom and top pieces to secure them without running bolts through the whole creation, like this (I changed the color from smoked acrylic to solid to show the features better)
Great idea, so the plastic hardens and it's not just bendable like putty? If it does harden, I'll use it.
sangu
120 posts
Joined June 2013
sangu
It hardens until it is placed in warm water again. (it has to be warmer than a sweaty hand) Once you place it in water it becomes moldable again, so you can keep trying until you find your favorite shape. Once that is found, cool the model, and it will be a hardened plastic form.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

sanguisinvia wrote:

It hardens until it is placed in warm water again. (it has to be warmer than a sweaty hand) Once you place it in water it becomes moldable again, so you can keep trying until you find your favorite shape. Once that is found, cool the model, and it will be a hardened plastic form.
I guess I will try to make a casing using a your idea and revised version of my crazy idea both. That way I can see which one works better.
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun
New legit red and clear switches came in today. I still haven't received my weller soldering iron so I ended up buying a cheaper walmart iron because i'm impatient. Soldered the reds on to a new board and they work perfectly after 20 mins of osu!. What sucks is that the tape didn't hold the switches down well enough like my last board and they ended up crooked. Sad life. I still got 4 other boards and clear switches, but I might just wait for my weller to come in.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

New legit red and clear switches came in today. I still haven't received my weller soldering iron so I ended up buying a cheaper walmart iron because i'm impatient. Soldered the reds on to a new board and they work perfectly after 20 mins of osu!. What sucks is that the tape didn't hold the switches down well enough like my last board and they ended up crooked. Sad life. I still got 4 other boards and clear switches, but I might just wait for my weller to come in.
The Chinese origin post isn't shipping on time (Been waiting 6 days for it to depart from Nanjing), so I might have to look for switches elsewhere. Because of eBay's way of dealing with sellers, I have to wait until November 14 before I can use eBay Buyer Protection to get a refund.

I will have to try something else to get my switches.

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

InnocentEyes wrote:

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?
Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Looking at a comparison for how all of the switches work I felt that brown would be the best match because it is tactile. Red isn't tactile, so I might have problems with it because of its linear feedback. Red however has very low resistance and I may be able to go faster with it. Green is just... I guess if I wanted a workout? Black is much the same. Blue also has fairly low resistance but the clicking noise might get annoying.

Do you know what any famous osu! players use? (i.e. rrtyui, cookiezi, WubWoofWolf, hvick225)
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi
I suppose it is noteworthy if I mention the switches aren't here yet and I may need to make a separate purchase for new ones while I wait to ask eBay's support to enforce a refund. If I do buy new switches that aren't red and the ones I have already ordered do arrive, then that just means I can make a second keyboard and sell it somewhere.
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Back to soldering wire, did you yourself use copper or tin?

Tin. The clear switches are pretty great.
Looking at a comparison for how all of the switches work I felt that brown would be the best match because it is tactile. Red isn't tactile, so I might have problems with it because of its linear feedback. Red however has very low resistance and I may be able to go faster with it. Green is just... I guess if I wanted a workout? Black is much the same. Blue also has fairly low resistance but the clicking noise might get annoying.

Do you know what any famous osu! players use? (i.e. rrtyui, cookiezi, WubWoofWolf, hvick225)
I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.

It really depends on what your comfortable with. I've tried browns before for typing and I didn't really like them but now that I played with reds I miss the tactile feedback from my blues so i'm going to give browns a try for osu! once I get a order in. Clears are pretty damn good and the tactile feedback is much more noticeable then when I tried browns but my hands experienced fatigue much quicker then usual. Not going to bother with Ergo clears since I soldered the leds in already and now its near impossible to remove the springs. Those could have been my main because there supposedly browns but with the more noticeable tactile feedback.

For switches I would order them off of WASD as mine are in excellent condition. Alternatively you could try mechanicalkeyboards which is also a reputable source for anything mech. I wouldn't trust ebay especially since you're having problems and the chances of those switches being imitation are high considering some do ship from china.

As for case designs I've settled on a cardboard box haha for now. I'm going to wait and see what you come up then copy that if it turns out well :P I call my first protype the osu! pad homeless edition.

Btw I found this and it might turn out great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEO ... AMZPY8TXHP
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Btw I found this and it might turn out great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEO ... AMZPY8TXHP
Hmm, that looks like it might work, I'd need the dimensions though, because that looks like it might be tough to cut through.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.
Red it is. I'll get blues just in case
Sorun
234 posts
Joined October 2010
Sorun

InnocentEyes wrote:

Sorun wrote:

I know cookiezi went from blue to reds. I know Wub has a keypad with every switch but I think he mains blues so does rrtyuii. Not 100% sure.
Red it is. I'll get blues just in case
Reds are probably the most popular on osu! I think you'll enjoy it. Blues are much more of a preference because of the click clack, you might enjoy it like I do.


"Hmm, that looks like it might work, I'd need the dimensions though, because that looks like it might be tough to cut through."

Yeah I think you would need to have a power drill and a jigsaw for the cutout.
Foxi
204 posts
Joined July 2013
Foxi

Sorun wrote:

Yeah I think you would need to have a power drill and a jigsaw for the cutout.
Maybe I'll do that in my second copy, but for right now I am using my original idea.

Now, if only I could get my hands on those switches already. :(
Deimos
802 posts
Joined April 2012
Deimos
Is the techkey card even configurable?

I also made a 2 button keyboard but used the Adafruit USB trinket (5V) instead.
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